Engine oil drain plug M12 bolt 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Oil filter cover filter housing 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Oxygen sensor to exhaust manifold 50 Nm 37 ft-lb Spark plug to cylinder head 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Intake manifold to cylinder head M7 15 Nm 11 ft-lbM8 22 Nm 16 ft-lb Coolant drain plug to cylinder block 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Coolant pump to timing chain cover 10 Nm 89 in-lb Coolant pump pulley to coolant pump 10 Nm 89 in-lb Engine block drain plug to block 25 Nm 18 ft-lb.
Engine mount to subframe M10 45 Nm 33 ft-lb Exhaust manifold to cylinder head M6 10 Nm 8 ft-lbM7 or M8 20 Nm 15 ft-lb Intake manifold to cylinder head M7 15 Nm 11 ft-lbM8 22 Nm 16 ft-lb Intake manifold mounting bracket to cylinder block M10 47 Nm 33 ft-lb Intake manifold mounting bracket to intake manifold M6 10 Nm 7 ft-lb Radiator cooling fan to coolant pump 40 Nm 30 ft-lb Radiator drain screw to radiator 2.
Center bearing driveshaft to body 21 Nm 15 ft-lb Clamping sleeve driveshaft 10 Nm 89 in-lb Driveshaft to final drive flange With U-joint M10 ribbed nut 80 Nm 59 ft-lb With U-joint M10 compressed nut 64 Nm 47 ft-lb Flex-disc to driveshaft or transmission flange M10 8. Control arm ball joint to suspension subframe 90 Nm 66 ft-lb Control arm ball joint bracket to subframe M12 bolt 77 Nm 57 ft-lb Control arm mounting bracket to subframe M10 bolt always replace 59 Nm 44 ft-lb Front subframe to frame rails M12, use new bolts 8.
BMW e46 M52/M54 torque specs
Engine oil drain plug M12 bolt 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Oil filter cover filter housing 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Oxygen sensor to exhaust manifold 50 Nm 37 ft-lb Spark plug to cylinder head 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Intake manifold to cylinder head M7 15 Nm 11 ft-lbM8 22 Nm 16 ft-lb Coolant drain plug to cylinder block 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Coolant pump to timing chain cover 10 Nm 89 in-lb Coolant pump pulley to coolant pump 10 Nm 89 in-lb Engine block drain plug to block 25 Nm 18 ft-lb Engine mount to subframe M10 45 Nm 33 ft-lb Exhaust manifold to cylinder head M6 10 Nm 8 ft-lbM7 or M8 20 Nm 15 ft-lb Intake manifold to cylinder head M7 15 Nm 11 ft-lbM8 22 Nm 16 ft-lb Intake manifold mounting bracket to cylinder block M10 47 Nm 33 ft-lb Intake manifold mounting bracket to intake manifold M6 10 Nm 7 ft-lb Radiator cooling fan to coolant pump 40 Nm 30 ft-lb Radiator drain screw to radiator 2.The eldest representative of M52 family was firstly introduced in Cylinder block was made of aluminum with the exception of autos which were exported to the USA.
Cylinders diameter is the same as in M52B The size of injectors is cc.
M52TUB28 modified version was produced in It was equipped with cast iron sleeves located in the cylinder block. Double-Vanos engine included new connecting rods and pistons as well as renewed and improved cooling system and electronic throttle body.
In successor from new M54 series was introduced. M54B30 engine replaced its predecessor in and production of was stopped. M52B28 — is a basic engine modification. Specifications are as follows: compression ratio — Disadvantages of 2. HERE you can find detailed information on reliability of the given engine.
The easiest way to increase the level of power is to install M50B25 intake manifold as well as cold air intake. At the same time you need to upgrade camshaft and tune ECU. S52B32 camshaft will be the best bet for this purpose. Such kit will guarantee from to HP which is perfect for a city ride and will not cost you a fortune.
BMW E39 Intake Manifold Removal
There is another alternative to turn your engine into 3-liter M52B You need to purchase M54B30 crankshaft to implement this project.
Standard pistons should be milled down to 1. The rest of bearings should be left stock. M50B25 intake manifold is recommended for improvement of HP characteristics. It will be followed with a perfect acceleration. Such kind of engine will be the best bet for your everyday drive.
It will also show high level of reliability. Sometimes this rate can be a bit higher. If the HP rate is higher thanstock pistons should be replaced by forged pistons with 8. Such systems make it possible to upgrade your engine up to HP and more without replacing stock pistons. Mitsubishi 4G Honda K20A K20C. Honda K24A K24Z. Honda R18A. Honda R20A. Honda L15A L15B. Honda L13A L13B. Honda D15B D15A. Honda D17A. Toyota 2NZ.The engine was manufactured on Munich Plant Munich, Germany from to The M52B28 TU engine features a cast-aluminum alloy cylinder block with cast-iron cylinder liners.
The aluminum cylinder head uses chain-driven double overhead camshafts DOHC and four valves per cylinder 24 valves in total. It is equipped with a Siemens MS This engine has an This engine has a compression ratio of The M52B28TU cylinder block is cast aluminum alloy with cast iron cylinder liners, bore is The compression ratio rating is The cylinders are exposed on all sides to circulating coolant.
The forged steel counterweighted crankshaft rotates in replaceable split-shell main bearings. This engine used seven main bearings. The forged steel connecting rods use replaceable split-shell bearings at the crankshaft end and solid bushings at the piston pin end. The pistons are of the three-ring type with two upper compression rings and a lower one-piece oil scraper ring.
Full-floating piston pins are retained with circlips. The M52B28TU use a graphite coating on the piston skirts to reduce friction and noise. The cylinder head is made of an aluminum alloy with good cooling efficiency. The M52TU B28 engine use chain-driven double overhead camshafts and four valves per cylinder. Standart head height is The cylinder head employs a crossflow design for greater power and efficiency.
Intake air enters the combustion chamber from one side while exhaust gasses exit from the other. VANOS is fully variable and operates independently on both intake and exhaust sides. Intake valves are Valve clearance is set by self-adjusting zero-lash hydraulic lifters for reduced valve noise and the elimination of routine valve adjustment. We try to use verified sources and official documentation, however, differences between sources or errors in entering information may occur.
We do not provide advice on technical issues related to the engines operation or repair. We do not recommend using provided information for engines repairing engines or spare parts ordering, use only official service manuals and spare-parts catalogs. Be the first to comment Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website.Many critical engine components, especially those that comprise the air intake system, are made out of plastic or rubber and are especially prone to failure in the extreme heat of the engine compartment.
The intake manifold gaskets in the E46 3 series are notably susceptible to failing in these brutal conditions. Over time the manifold gaskets become hard and brittle creating vacuum leaks and allowing unmonitored air to enter the engine. Replacing the BMW E46 intake manifold gaskets is not technically difficult, but does involve the removal of a lot of parts.
Identifying and marking wire harnesses and connections is very important in this repair; there are a lot of them, and labeling them during disassembly makes putting the car back together extremely easier. As these two critical parts age, they can cause vacuum leaks and a rough idling engine.
Now is a great time to replace them since they will need to be removed for this repair. Section 2 — Removing and installing the manifold gaskets. Section 3 — Reassembly of the intake manifold Reassembling the intake manifold ids very straight forward…just follow the above steps in reverse.
Make sure the new rubber gaskets are properly seated in the intake manifold before reinstalling. Pay particular attention when mounting the intake manifold back on the engine; the threaded studs can snag the rubber gaskets, pulling them out of alignment. Take your time and move slowly when reinstalling the intake manifold. Make sure to use the following torque values when tightening down the intake manifold nuts and throttle body bolts.
And congratulations for Doing It Yourself! The Level of Difficulty displays graphically how challenging the repair is, from beginner to expert. Beginner repairs usually require very few tools, have short repair times and are simple to complete for even the most novice of mechanics.
As the difficulty level rises expect the repair to demand more time, use more specialized tools, and require a better understanding of mechanics to complete the job.
The Repair Cost graphically displays approximately how expensive the repair will be to perform. Please note that these cost estimates are approximate and can fluctuate based on brand preferences and manufacturer. BMW E Share on Facebook. To see other repairs on our site using this actual car, please click on the image below! Repair Summary The following article provides detailed instructions on replacing the intake manifold gaskets in a BMW E46 3 series car with the M52 or M54 6 cylinder engine.
Even though we have used a BMW ci to perform this installation, this article can be applied to any BMW E46 3 series vehicle with minor modifications to the steps below.
For more information on affiliate linksplease click here. We give you several excellent choices below. Intake Manifold Gasket Set — Ajusa Throttle body gasket required — It is standard procedure to replace this gasket every time the throttle is removed from the intake manifold.
A fresh gasket for your throttle body is cheap insurance against future vacuum leaks.If you are looking for more power out of your BMW M3 or a this is probably the best modification you can do for very little money. Some people reported a 20hp gain from swapping to an OBD-1 manifold. People claim a torque loss under 4K rpm but I have noticed nothing but gains all across the rev range.
The car is absolutely transformed, the engine feels more natural than before pulling hard all the way to the redline. This article should give you a pretty good idea of what is involved in swapping the manifold and all the parts necessary for the swap. To get started, remove the fuel injector cover, unplug the O2 sensors, unbolt the fuel rail and carefully pry the injectors together with the fuel rail out of the manifold.
Next, remove your air box, intake boot and MAF. Remove your alternator cooling duct and unplug the throttle position sensor as well as the purge valve on some earlier cars the purge valve is mounted to the shock tower so just leave it alone.
Unbolt your throttle body and lay it to the side. Now unbolt the bracket that holds the idle control valve and the oil dipstick tube. Pop the idle control valve out of the manifold, unbolt your oil separator and start unbolting the intake manifold. Once the manifold is out of the way cut the zip ties that hold the wiring harness to the bracket on the engine block. Remove the bracket and install an OBD-I bracket part number in its place.
OBD-I bracket will need to be slightly modified. A hole at the bottom of it will need to be enlarged to 8mm and at the top it will need to be bent slightly to clear the bracket near the back of the engine.
You will also have to loosen the front knock sensor and turn it slightly to clear the bracket. Make sure you torque the knock sensor back to specs. Once the OBD-I bracket is installed start attaching the wiring harness to it with zip ties. In this picture you see where the one of the new manifold support brackets mounts, directly to the block.
Both support brackets and the wiring harness bracket are mounted to the engine. Bolt up two OBD-I manifold brackets to your block. Part numbers for the brackets are and Please note how the new brackets mount to different locations on the block. Front bracket mounts to a threaded hole in the block right behind the engine mount and the rear bracket mounts to an engine mount itself. Now it is time to sort out all of the hoses.
I cut a slice out of an OBD-I hosetrimmed the ridges and installed a T-fitting into it. Your oil separator and purge valve hose will connect to this vacuum source. The air pump control valve hose will connect directly to the connector that clips into the back of the manifold. To connect the oil separator to the T-fitting I used an idle control valve hose This hose is the one that connects the idle control valve to the throttle body boot on OBD-II cars, I simply cut it into several sections.
You will also need to install another T-fitting into it for your purge valve hose. I used a fitting part number To connect the ICV to the air intake boot use hose part number Before you install the new intake manifold you need to modify your intake temp sensor and install it into the manifold.
To make the temp sensor fit you need to file it down a bit, just enough for it to screw into the threaded hole in the manifold. Now you can finally install your M50 manifold.
Bolt everything up, make sure you use new intake manifold gaskets. To make the throttle body seal you will need to fabricate an aluminum plate and use two throttle body seals instead of one one in the manifold and one in the throttle body. I modified a bracket that held the ICV in place to hold the oil dipstick tube, simply cut one end of it and drill a new hole. Once the manifold is on the engine it is time to reinstall your fuel injectors.The inline six-cylinder 2.
The M52 engine series replaced the Mseries. This engine, like M50 engines, got an aluminum cylinder block with Nikasil layer on cylinder walls. For the North American market, the M52B28 features a cast iron engine blocks instead of aluminum ones, and only BMW Z3 model got engines with an aluminum cylinder block.
That decision was made due to high levels of sulfur in the US gasoline, which has a corrosive effect on Nikasil leading to fast wear. Connecting rods are mm long.How to Install an Intake Manifold - Roadkill Extra
Aluminum pistons have a compression height of Those numbers allowed getting in result "square engine" The M52 2. The M52TU was released in It has some updates compare to the M52B. Also, the engine got new pistons, connecting rods, electronic throttle body. The M52B28 engine easily can be overheated. Any overheating will destroy a cylinder head. The engine has unreliable oil rings and consumes oil in large volume when they are really bad. The ECU will turn off the ignition for cylinders in which valves are not closed tight.
The M52B28 has a more complicated design. Its engine life is shorter than M50 engines. Some problems are common to all M52 engines.
You can find detailed information about them in other Mseries engine reviews. Engine Specs Manufacturer. Production years. Cylinder block material. Cylinder head material. Fuel type. Number of cylinders. Valves per cylinder. Valvetrain layout. Bore, mm. Displacement, cc.All an engine is, is a self-powered air pump. An air pump draws in air, compresses it and then expels the compressed air.
Your engine does the same thing. It draws in air through your intake manifold. The intake manifold is one of the parts of your engine that contribute to the power output. Make the ports too small and airflow travels at high speed at low rpm but restricted at high rpm. If your intake manifold volume is too large then airflow will be slow at low rpm low mid-range power and throttle response but will make more horsepower at higher rpm.
This is why modern intake manifolds have some sort of intake runner control to get the best of both worlds. In this tech article we are going to go over all of the steps to remove the intake manifold for the six and eight cylinder engines. On the eight cylinder engine you will need to remove the upper engine cover. This is different with the six cylinder engine.
You do not need to remove the fuel rail from the manifold but we have done so for photographic purposes, we have also removed the air-box, MAF and throttle body for photographic purposes.
You do not have to remove the air-box, MAF and throttle body but you do have to separate the components so you can remove the intake manifold. Removing these components also gives you more room to work. Working at the left side of the intake manifold just in front of the throttle body lift up on the EVAP Purge solenoid and remove it from the bracket on the intake manifold. Large Image Extra-Large Image.
Locate the oil dipstick tube and move down the tube until you see its mount on the intake bracket. Remove the 10mm fastener green arrow that mounts the oil dipstick tube to the intake bracket. You will eventually have to unplug the idle speed motor and removing it makes it easier. We have chosen to remove the two 10mm fasteners and removing the idle speed motor by moving it down in the direction of the blue arrow.
Pull the idle speed motor out from underneath the intake manifold to expose the electrical connector. Push in on the connector retaining clip green arrow and pull the connector in the direction of the blue arrow. Reach behind the bracket on the intake manifold below the throttle body and push on the electrical connector retaining clip green arrow and unplug it by pulling the connector in the direction of the blue arrow.
Squeeze the locking tabs on the crankcase breather hose and remove it from the valve cover. Locate the thinner EVAP purge solenoid hose green arrow and remove it from the intake manifold.
This is made easier by twisting back and forth while pulling it downward in the direction of the blue arrow. Pull the throttle body cooling hose green arrow out of its holder on the intake manifold bracket.
Working at the top of the intake manifold remove the positive terminal cover. With a 19mm socket remove the positive terminal bolt green arrow from the intake manifold. Be careful that this terminal does not contact ground. It is covered in plastic so it is difficult to do this. If you want you can disconnect the battery negative terminal to open the circuit completely to prevent a short circuit. Working underneath the intake manifold behind the motor mount bracket remove the 13mm fastener green arrow that holds the rear lower intake manifold bracket to the engine block.
Here the fastener is already removed. Still working underneath the intake manifold in front of the motor mount bracket remove the 13mm fastener green arrow that mounts the front lower intake manifold bracket to the engine block. Working at the top of the intake manifold again remove the seven 11mm intake manifold mounting bolts green arrows.
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